Thursday, May 30, 2013

Music at Paddington Station

One evening we went to Paddington Station to find a band. Specifically, they were the Great Western Railway Paddington Station Military Band. We were quite surprised to find them there! They played in the middle of the station with trains coming and going on each side of them. They were quite good and we enjoyed listening to them.

Our Guide and Driver

Our coach driver, Stevie, and tour guide, Maggie, are both from Scotland and had wonderful accents. Every once in a while Maggie would throw out a Gaelic word for us to learn. Barbara’s favorite is “shambolic” which means “in a shambles.” (“Shambolic” is the adjective related to the noun “shambles.”) Stevie and Maggie also bantered back and forth, and that was quite a lot of fun. Here are pictures of them and our coach.



This is a new coach for 2013 and 12 feet longer than the one Stevie drove for Marion Scoular’s tour in 2012. It is HUGE! It holds 56 passengers – plenty of space for the 20 passengers it carried (18 tour members, Marion Scoular, and Maggie McQuade). We each had our own 2-seat “compartment” – great for the items we picked up along the way.

Traffic Signs

I get a charge out of seeing the differences in traffic signs between here and the UK. One thing I found interesting is that traffic lights use the yellow light when they change from red to green as well as from green to red. A sign I saw in horse country but wasn’t able to catch a picture of it said, “No racing of horse-drawn vehicles.”

Here are some additional signs. (Please excuse the out of focus pictures; they were taken from a moving vehicle. While I probably passed some of these signs while walking, I wasn’t thinking then about taking pictures of signs.)



Do Not Enter – I don’t remember seeing any one-way signs, just these signs indicating no entry.



This sign speaks for itself. I like the fact that, if a car breaks down in a construction area, the driver doesn’t have to foot the bill for the tow. That is very civilized.



This sign shows two different things. A speed bump is called a hump; and, instead of measuring things in feet like we do, they say that something is so many yards ahead. I found myself having to do math in my head to figure out how far away something was. I just don't think in terms of yards.



We’d say, “Slow Down” but even though it is wordier, I like “Kill Your Speed!”



This sign means NO STOPPING and the next one means NO WAITING.



There's a subtle difference between the two signs. Don’t you have to stop to wait? As near as I could figure out from what our coach driver said, stopping means you have parked and left the vehicle. Waiting means that you are stopped but are still in the vehicle.



They say “site traffic”; we’d say “construction traffic.”



It’s a truck with a weight limit. It is so clear! We should do it this way.



This is “yield” in a kinder, gentler universe…


The trip home

We had to get up WAY too early to go to the airport. Barbara and I were the last to arrive in the lobby, and everyone was teasing us that they were getting ready to call us to make sure we were up. I found that rather funny as we came down earlier than we needed to be. The early shift of people going to the airport loaded into the coach, and we went to the airport. Going through security was annoying, but the security guy was quite a talker and that made the process a little less so.

The flight back seemed much longer than the flight over. The flight to England was overnight and we slept a lot. The flight back was during the day. Barbara couldn’t sleep, and I took only a short nap. Going through customs didn’t take long at all, and then we had to change terminals which meant that we had to go through security again; but we had plenty of time. All flights went smoothly, and it was great to be back in the USA although landing in 50-degree, rainy and windy weather wasn’t what we had hoped for.

Windsor

We have a lovely hotel in Windsor, just a block away from Windsor Castle. Yes, as in one of the places where the Queen hangs out. I was surprised at how close the town comes to the walls surrounding the castle, although I’m sure that the area the Queen inhabits is far away from the wall where the town abuts. This gate to the castle is right across the street from the business district. I did some shopping and snapped some pictures while Barbara rested in the hotel.



Dinner was lovely and we had a great time talking and laughing and listening to stories told by Stevie, our Scottish coach driver. It hardly seems possible that it is the last dinner of the tour. On the other hand, I’m glad I’ll be eating more reasonably once I’m home. I don’t need all the food we get at these meals. I know I said I wasn’t going to eat everything in front of me, but I have anyway. When the food is excellent, who wants to stop eating?

Parham House

We visited Parham House this morning. Unfortunately, we were not allowed to take photographs inside the house, but here is a picture of one wing of the house. The family still lives in part of the house, and the National Trust takes care of the main part of the house.



Here we learned about the origin of the phrase “chairman of the board.” The board is a dining table where everyone sat, using either stools or benches, except for the highest-ranking person within the group; the group could be a group of servants or the family and guests. That highest ranking person (male, of course) sat in the only chair at the head of the table. Hence, “chair man of the board.” Barbara and I thought this was a really interesting explanation.

We saw some great tapestries, rugs and needlework that I wish I could share. Then we had a nice lunch and a drive to Windsor where we were on our own for the afternoon.

Saturday, May 25, 2013

Westminster Abbey

Flashing our Oyster cards (for rides on both city double-decker buses and underground subways – affectionately known as “the tube”), we hopped onto the underground to travel to Westminster Abbey. Since everyone takes and posts pictures of the “main” North Entrance, I chose to show you the West Transept Entrance.


Again, photography isn’t allowed inside the Abbey itself. I wish I could have taken pictures because the place is wonderful. On the other hand, photographs cannot convey the immensity of these large spaces and beautiful work. We arrived (on purpose) too late to tour the place because they don’t charge admission to attend services; so we attended Evensong. We were able to see the interior and listen to wonderful music. We couldn’t see anything that was going on because we were seated in one of the transepts, but technology saves the day. There was a large screen in each transept showing the main aisle between the choir stalls so we could watch the choir and the officiates.

We were lucky that the boys’ choir was scheduled to sing and they were wonderful. There appeared to be about 30-35 boys in this choir and no men. As in other Evensong services, the choir sang the introit, versicles with responses, and psalm (all in plainsong), Magnificat and Nunc dimittis (both by Matthew Martin, contemporary composer) as well as an anthem (also in contemporary harmonies). Most of their music was sung in unison, but the contemporary anthem employed some two-part singing; their dissonances (notes very close together) were delicious. The organist was very accomplished and handled the contemporary compositions with ease. The organs in both Westminster and St. Paul’s are large and wonderful to hear but sound very far away due to the sizes of the spaces.

Victoria and Albert Museum

We left Ham House and returned to London for an afternoon on our own. Barbara and I went to the Victoria and Albert Museum. The lobby boasts a wonderful glass sculpture by the artist Dale Chihuly.

After lunch, we started to go to the fashion gallery but, on the way, ran into a couple of people from the tour group who recommended that we see the Middle Eastern exhibit where there was some wonderful embroidery on a burqa with face veil. It turned out to be a stunning white embroidery on white fabric with pulled threadwork where the wearer looks through the veil. Gorgeous to look at, but I wouldn’t want to wear one.

Along with the fashion gallery that displayed various fashions that have been worn in the past couple hundred years, we also saw some wonderful needlework and painting on fabric in the India gallery. I wish I could share pictures, but the only pictures allowed in the Museum are from the atrium.

Ham House

Ham House is full of interesting items including some very interesting tapestries. The one pictured was purchased from someone trying to pay off his gambling debts. It was too large to fit the space; so, at some point, somebody whacked out part of the middle of the picture and just sewed together what was left. You can see that there is only 1/3 of a tree sticking out in the middle of the sky. Whatever was that person thinking when that cut was made? At the opposite end of the room was a tapestry that had been handled much more kindly.

On the other hand, there are some stunning carved stair railings. The pictures are different on both sides of the rail, in a wonderful display of fine artistry. The pictures show the opposite sides of the same piece of railing. Pretty cool, huh?



Also at Ham House is the oldest known teapot in England. (I’m not including a picture as it is not at all impressive. It’s just nice to know that it is there.) There are also the first formal dining room in England (they used leather on the walls as it was easy to clean and didn’t absorb odors) and the first en-suite bathroom in the country. The bathroom was off the lady’s bed chamber but also had its own bed so that she could rest after having a nice hot bath and massage. What a life! There is also a lock of hair in a picture frame of one of the kings. I can’t remember if it is James I, James II or Charles II, but one of them donated a lock of hair as a reward for the family being loyal supporters of the crown.

Wednesday, May 22, 2013

Sunday, May 19, p.m.

While we in the United States were worried about computer problems at the turn of the millenium, people in Great Britain were interested in marking the millenium by other means. That's why we are seeing so many millenium tapestries. We viewed the one at Sunbury on Thames today. Each one of these millenium tapestries is unique to the locale; so, except for very general themes, such as prehistory, the Roman occupation and WWI and WWII, they touch on buildings, people and events that are specific to the area. In this case, there is special mention of a tragic maritime accident where a larger boat ran into and sank a pleasure boat.
Sunday, May 19, a.m.

Today's visit is to the Embroiderers' Guild, which is the model and inspiration for the Embroiderers' Guild of America. They have an extensive collection of old and new needleart, some of which are on display throughout the building. They also pulled out many pieces that were laid out on tables for us to look at. They even provided white cotton gloves so that we could pick up and look at the pieces. There was a variety of traditional and contemporary pieces, all of which were interesting, but I didn't appreciate some of the contemporary works.

There were also some treasure bags that they had for sale, which were little plastic baggies full of a variety of things including small completed pieces, oriental embroidery, beads, buttons and assorted goodies. As we left, they gave each of us a bag with recent issues of the two magazines that they produce, assorted threads and other items. It was a very nice visit.
Saturday, May 18, a.m.

Coggeshall is a very small town. By its population of 4,000 it is considered a village, but because it has a market it is considered a town. According to one shopkeeper that Barbara & I spoke with, it is one of the oldest villaages in the country as the Romans had a town set up here. A lesser claim to fame is that it is the last place in the country where a witch was burned at the stake. (That's a not-so-pleasant claim to fame.)

But we were here to find out about Coggeshall lace, a type of tambour work which is really not lace but embroidery. Lace in general is created out of thread using a needle or shuttle (and can be attached to fabric). Embroidery is worked directly on the fabric.

The word tambour is based on a word that means drum. Tambourine is another related word. The fabric is stretched drum-head tight before working on it. In Coggeshall lace, the base fabric is a mesh fabric like tulle. The lecturer-demonstrator for the lace was Sue, who told us she prefers to use cotton tulle which is still made, although usually for use as mosquito netting. She said nylon tulle is difficult to work with because the thin nylon can cut the thread if the thread is pulled too tightly.

The only stitch that is used is a chain stitch, and a very small hooked needle (similar to a crochet hook) is used to create it. (Sue creates her own hooking tool by using a chain-stitch sewing-machine needle and putting it into a handle.) The design is usually done in one continuous line, unless there is a small circle or other shape in a large open area. This is a simple technique that creates very lovely results.

Sunday, May 19, 2013

Friday, May 17, p.m.

In the afternoon we didn't have anything scheduled and could go and do whatever we wanted. Barbara and I went to King's College Chapel. We had been advised that the Chapel was the most important place to visit – and all were right! The vaulted 80-foot ”fan” (design) ceiling is magnificent, and the 26 sets of huge stained-glass windows were glorious. An organist was practicing (perhaps for the Evensong we could not stay for), and the music certainly added to our experience. We read panels of historical information until we OD'd and then proceeded to The King's Shop to cash in our 10% brochure discount where Barbara found the perfect Christmas doll for her daughter, Deborah.
Friday, May 17, a.m.

We saw a tremendous sampler collection this morning at the Fitzwilliam Museum in Cambridge. Our guide, Carol, had the English samplers laid out by age with the next-to-oldest being from the 1600s and going up ino the 20th century, and a small group of samplers from other countries. A few of the samplers were not finished, giving a great view of uncompleted motifs, showing their construction. Once I can get blogger to accept my pictures (current theory is that the files are too large), I'll put some splendid examples up.

Newmarket

Thursday, evening

We are in Newmarket, the horse capital of England. We can see training tracks and cooling-down barns from the hotel room. I took a walk to the nearest grocery store and found that sidewalks are shared by horses and people. That means watching the ground to avoid the horse poop. (It's not royal horse poop this time, just regular horse poop.)



The hotel we are in is quite the place! Posh is the best description. I'd call it a spa, but that is in the process of being built next door and won't open until July. The towels are plush and large, there was bed turn-down service while we were out, there is an exercise room. I'm not clear if they have their own stables or not, but there are a lot of horses that can be seen from our room and the hotel grounds.

After another gourmet dinner which was a bit rushed by the schedule we had to keep, we got back onto the bus for a ride to Bury St. Edmunds. Yes, we had just been in Bury S. Edmunds in the morning, but we returned to see a local production of “Hot Mikado,” a jazz version of Gilbert and Sullivan's “Mikado” set in the 1950s. I found act I a little tedious, but act II was very funny. It was a good production.

Museum of East Anglia

Thursday, May 16, p.m.

In the afternoon we went to the Museum of East Anglian Life where we learned about smocks and smocking. Smocks, while used nowadays by people like painters to keep their clothes clean while they are painting canvases, etc., used to be the attire of low and middle class people. The smocking was used to create a working garment that had a lot of flexibility and give to it. The fabric was gathered by the smocking into an area that needed to be a little tighter (across the chest, for instance), and this allowed the fabric below the smocking to be more spacious for various working conditions. A person would have two smocks, one to wear everyday to protect clothes while working, and one for good occasions. Only having two, I'm not sure when the working one would ever get cleaned. What would the farmer wear while the everyday one was drying? In the summer, he's got to work everyday, milking the cows, and so on. And the smocks are made out of cotton or linen twill, a heavy weave of fabric.



We also looked at a nice array of samplers that were done in the East Anglia area and then looked around the grounds of the museum and went through the house.





Bury St. Edmunds

Thursday, May 16, a.m.

This morning we were off to Bury St. Edmunds. Bury does not mean the place that St. Edmunds is buried. It is a shortened form of borough; thus it is the Borough of St. Edmunds. It can just as easily be St. Edmundsbury and we saw the name done both ways.



We visited the Cathedral where they have some lovely embroidered vestments,



some old and new tapestries



and more than 1,000 needlepointed kneelers.

The Cathedral has a rather large diocese, and, when they decided to get kneelers, they asked the 500 churches in the diocese to create 2 kneelers each. The churches were glad to be able to do this, and the cathedral didn't have to bear the cost of all 1,000. What a great idea!

Each kneeler follows the same basic pattern: dark blue below, light blue above with a Y-shape across the center of the pillow. Other than that, each church did individual designs that had local meanings. Then the church/town name was across the bottom. With such design leeway, there is a lot of variation and no duplication unless the same design was done twice by a church.






Blickling Hall

Wednesday, May 15, p.m.

Blickling Hall was built by Anne Boleyn's family, but it is unsure whether she lived there or not. As the second wife of Henry VIII, she certainly didn't survive to enjoy visiting her family there.

This historic house is in the Jacobean style of architecture. It is HUGE! It's in the shape of a U with the main house being the bottom of the U, and then there are long wings that come out on each side of it. The self-guided tour was only of the central section and included the “below stairs” areas of the house staff as it existed in the 1930s.



There were many fine textiles and embroidery pieces, but the most interesting thing for both of us was talking with the librarian who is cataloging all the books in the house. He works in the library in public view so that people can talk to him and he can show the old books to people going through the house.



The main library has 12,000 books, of which he has cataloged about 4,000. He figures that it will be another 7 years for him to finish cataloging the books they know about, but that there are many more books in storage in the attic that have not been looked at in years. We saw a cheaply bound book that was bound with sheepskin and compared that to one bound with tooled leather, gilt designs and coffered pages. That means a design has been put onto the edges of the pages so that it shows up when the book is closed. In this case, the design was punched into the gilt-edged pages witth a punch and small hammer creating a lovely pattern.



By the time we finished talking with him, there was barely enough time to run through the house, avoiding eager-to-talk guides, and get back on the coach.

Embroiderers' Guild, Waveney Chapter

Wednesday, May 15, a.m.

We spent the morning with the Waveney Embroiderers' Guild. This is their Guild sign. Each square has been designed and stitched by different members of the Guild.



They have only been in existence for 10 years, but they have a very active group of people. We thought we would be stitching with these ladies, but instead we saw many of their projects and they looked at the ones we brought to show. The rest of the time we just talked with one another about our stitching, stitching groups, and what type of stitching we like to do best. It was a very wonderful time and the two hours went by much too quickly.

As a special treat, each of us received a gift of a postcard-sized piece of needlework done by the ladies. The pieces are unique, each Waveney member having stitched her own design in her chosen threads and stitching techniques. We will certainly treasure these special gifts.

My gift



Barbara's gift

Norwich Castle Museum

Tuesday, May 14, later p.m.

We had a fabulous time at the Norwich Castle Museum. (Norwich is not pronounced Nor – wich, but Nor – rich.) Norwich was a center of shawl making and may have designed the first paisley shawl. However, Paisley, a town in Scotland, just sold more of them; so the design became known as Paisley instead of Norwich. We saw many old shawls and then how shawls were repurposed as other types of clothing. There was one fabulous coat that had previously been a shawl.



And here is another one:



After looking at shawls, we went into the storage area and saw some wonderful pieces of needlework. A couple of pieces looked like they were done with pen and ink rather than needle and thread.



And the most impressive piece was a 12-foot long letter that had been embroidered by a woman who had been put in the asylum section of a work house. She didn't want to be there and didn't think she should be there; so she created several long letters that were embroidered. The letter was obviously made with bits and pieces of fabric. The writing was legible but tended to ramble on without any punctuation and didn't make a whole lot of sense. The letter we saw is one of three that exist, and the longest letter is 20-feet long. I don't know if the letters were ever delivered.







Straw Museum

Tuesday, May 14, p.m.

The trip to the Straw Museum was quite an adventure. It was not well marked, and we kept driving up and down the road trying to find the correct turn off. Several calls were made to the museum trying to get better directions, and Stevie, our driver, stopped to check with a local couple before he finally found the road we needed to turn onto. Then we got to the lane. It was so narrow that he tried backing down the lane. When the trees got so close to the road that the branches were scraping down the length of the bus, he gave up, and we walked the rest of the way. Since the coach is only two weeks old, he didn't want to damage it.

Late arrival at the Straw Museum meant that we couldn't stay as long. We saw an interesting collection of straw marquetry and quilling. In straw marquetry, the dry straw is first split, then the sections are woven or wound together into different shapes like this stunning dragon.



Or they can be glued flat onto a background to create a flat picture instead of a 3-dimensional object. The straw can be dyed various colors. Even though it looks like the designs are made out of wood, they are really made out of natural and dyed straw.



In quilling, thin strips of paper (in the artist's choice of colors) are wound into little, tight circles. The tightness of the circle can be relaxed for another shape, pinched on one end to create a tear drop shape, or pinched on two sides to create yet another shape. A little bit of glue keeps the paper from unravelling.



All of these little pieces are then arranged into very striking pictures. This box is one of the fine examples we were shown.




We did get a demonstration of quilling but ran out of time before we could see the demonstration of straw marquetry.